After a couple of days in Cap Corse I decided to ride south and slowly head to Sardinia. Little did I know that the Corsican gods had become fond of my frolicking and would not be pleased if I left. Their attempts to stop me started entertainingly with goats. Note- riding too fast in Corsica is strictly contra-indicated.
And then moved to a wall of rain. Not some rain moving in, not wet weather- a wall that I could see from a distance. It wasn’t moving nearer or threatening me- it just put on its Gandalf face and said “Thou Shalt Not Pass!”
But pass I did, and pay for it I did too- 2 days of torrential rain followed. Tarmac roads turned to gravel as dirt and mud washed over them from above, small branches and leaves were blown down to turn themselves into a slimy, slippery paste, the… Okay, okay- it wasn’t exactly a biblical type thing, but I got very wet and cranky. Oh, and I proposed to my Pirelli tires- anything that sticks by its tarmac through all that garbage is a keeper!
A little side note here- Corsica is a tourist hell in season. I was there in November, but could still smell the screaming children, frazzled parents, and overworked caravan engines in almost every little town. An island that small with that many hotels and ‘attractions’ couldn’t be anything but. I’m sure the wonderful coastal roads are turned into parking lots with riders left to smell diesel fumes or run silly risks in endlessly passing tourist cars and caravans. I could be wrong, but after being stuck behind only two caravans for my whole stay and seeing how many caravan camping spots there are… Trust me- tourist season for riders is not during the summer.
Once I got mostly south and was within a couple of hours (my round about riding style) of Bonifacio the gods relented and the weather cleared. Finally being able to see the landscape I saw a completely different world- the steep cliffs and sea hugging roads had been replaced with a jumble of fallen rocks and roads that stayed more inland from the coast. The riding wasn’t as dramatic, but it was still fun.
Bonifacio was a great way to end my stay in Corsica- a nice town with a small port just made to wander around in and stretch the legs going up to the cliff part of town. The ferry to Sardinia was short and rough, but offered great views both leaving and arriving. They also made great espresso onboard for 1 Euro a shot… 5 Euros later Icouldn’twaittogetofftheferryandgetridingagaininsunnySardinia…
Arriving in Sardinia, the landscape is much the same as southern Corsica. Beyond that geological connection, and the Moor’s head in their flags, the two islands are completely different- surprisingly so in islands that are so close to each other.