Or Sanliurfa, is like no other place in Turkey. Deeply religious and an important pilgrimage site for all the Abrahamic religions, it just doesn’t feel like the rest of Turkey. It feels like the first of the great middle eastern religious cities, with Aleppo being next as you journey south. Everything seems to be telling you have a crossed a border and are now truly outside the grasp of European culture.
The markets spice area has a special section for hot spices and breathing the air is enough to clear even the most blocked of sinuses.
The area around the great mosques is best at sunset when the birds begin to circle before roosting and hard desert light softens, making a walk through the gardens a perfect way to relax.