No, I’m not talking about ful. I’m talking about the feeling of leaving Wadi Halfa and riding south along The Nile into the heart of Sudan- you can’t help but feel cool, excited, and nervous.
The old road to Dongola was one of the trials of African travel- riding it was an accomplishment in itself. It has now been paved and the adventure is poorer for it, though I’m sure the locals love it. That being said, the old road is still rideable in parts and it would take a lot more than a paved road to ruin the wonder of riding through the Sundanese desert.
Or blunt the first sight of The Nile after so much desolation.
Riding through the small villages, finding petrol, stopping for food- all of it is fantastic. After Egypt a New York mugger would be a treat, but the Sundanese people are truly wonderful- friendly, curious, open, and honest. Even the Coca-Cola being sold in the classic small glass bottles feels cheerful.
Ride on Sudan, ride on.