Despite its reputation, I quite enjoyed Dar es Salaam. Meeting up with my cousin certainly played a role, but I also enjoyed wonder mix of people and sense of life that pulsed through the streets- this no place for a lazy day. For most tourists Dar is the jumping off point for a safari, Kilimanjaro
, or Zanzibar
. I’d done the first two (or close enough for me), and the second was barred to me. There are so many places to see in a country that I’ve had to make some rules just to keep from being overwhelmed by the choices. The most important: If the bike can’t go, I can’t go. Ferries to Zanzibar are for people and the cargo ships are infrequent, expensive, and unreliable: my choice was made- no Zanzibar for me. I was kind of bummed, but if I tried to see everything I’d still be riding through Alberta!
So, after a nice visit with both my cousin and Dar, I was off. I decided to do a fairly straight run to Malawi: about 1000km of riding. My first campsite on the way was pleasant, but nothing to write home about. Mind you, the loud American evangelical missionaries might have had something to do with my lack of enthusiasm. The next day I reached Lake Malawi and a great little campsite right on the beach.
The ride to the Malawi border the next morning was annoying rocky in places (and worth another puncture @#$&%!!!), but the views were great.
So that, along with memories of the sunrise over the beach that morning,
kept me in a good mood until Malawi presented me with plenty more.