When I got on the ferry to Sumbawa, I heard a little grinding from my rear tire. Nothing too loud, but certainly enough to have me check when I parked the bike. Damn- oil was leaking out of my final drive hub! The drive had about 80,000km on it, but the last change was at 100,000km and after Africa- my riding had been a lot easier (in general) since then, so it should have been fine. Then I remembered that I had it changed by the losers at BMW Morocco… Crap, it probably was going. Ah well, when I get to some Internet I can check out what I can do myself and if I can get some help in Jakarta or something- for now, I have a ferry ride past a smoking volcano to enjoy!